Port Townsend or Bust (3 Ferries Ride, Jan 5-6, 2013)

I can only think of a couple of good ways to blunt the brutal reality of post-40 birthdays: get the hell out of town and drink to unconsciousness, or run/ bike a lot. Or how about this, get the hell out of town by riding your bike a lot AND drink to unconsciousness with your besties BRS buddies?  

We had planned to do the 3 ferry ride last summer but alas, summer days ran out, so what better time than the historically coldest weekend of the year? Only 8.5 hours daylight = an excuse to stay overnight in Port Townsend, rather than slogging through the whole near-century route in one day. A great way to test out my new full fenders, waterproof panniers, and saweet hub-powered lights. Can’t wire any Cateye or Garmin due to the lighting wires but I guess that’s the point of touring, no hurry, no counting miles. Stop for pictures and views, eat when hungry, drink when thirsty. Sounds like paradise to me.

Since I can’t even find my way out of a paper bag, I’m glad Dyno has prepared the route and even sent us this cute little packing list:

•    a couple versatile top layers, will probably recycle them for day two as well

•    a jacket

•    two pairs of gloves (one warmer than the other)

•    two hats (one warmer than the other)

•    two sets of cycling bottoms, both pretty warm (one for each day)

•    my regular grey pedal-pusher pants

•    shoe covers

•    two pairs of my warmest wool socks

•    two bike locks (cable around waist and a u-lock) i have an additional small keyed u-lock if you want me bring it for someone (but I won't haul it for you)

•    a pair of 'regular' pants (for walking around PT)

•    a pair of light sneakers (for walking around PT)

•    some basic food but plan on mostly eating along the way?

•    camera

•    what am i missing? (toothbrush, advil, cell phone charger)

on bike: lights, spare tubes, tools, batteries

Much less anxiety provoking than preparing for a solo 100 mile run out of state, but then you realize you’ll be hauling every ounce you pack up and down the hills of Whidbey.

FERRY #1: EDMONDS TO KINGSTON on the Puyallup

How to start the day off right: Speedway Café for unlimited coffee, eggs/ bacon, potatoes, and dry rye oh my. It’s my first ride in the dark from Mukilteo to the Edmonds ferry terminal. It’s cool riding in the dark, though I kept spooking Dyne who kept mistaking my headlights for a “car back”. 

We got to Edmonds really early, checked out the tourist pamphlets advertising the lavender in Sequim and the Washington State Ferry system. 

Then shortly after the Buttcrack of Dawn, we waited in a special ferry waiting area just for cyclists. I got to use the brand new Orca card I got for my birthday!

Finally time for ferry boarding, short ride.

Soon we disembark in Kingston. 

We lucked out with only 40% chance of rain and temps in the balmy mid-40’s. 

Here you can see Dyno being blown sideways by the cross bridge winds on the Hood Canal bridge:

Winding country roads with views of water.

We stop to view an ancient threshing machine at the Olympic visitors center museum:


When is lunch again? How about now?

Lunch in Port Ludlow. 

Ocean has packed an earnest ham sandwich lunch but I’m too hungry and too frickin old to skimp. It’s the best goddam burger on the peninsula along with pots of Earl Grey tea and hot tomato veggie soup, prepared by Chef Dan at the Riverside Rresort. 

Then more country roads, this time dirt trail (the Discovery Trail) which is probably the closest thing to off-road riding I’ve done since Switz, a bit muddy/ soft for road tires. Saw lots of horsies wearing coats. 

Pretty soon we’re ready to reach Port Townsend and beer. Which way do we go?

Wind was picking up, saw pretty whitecaps.

Checked in to the Aladdin motel, which has the Pourhouse across the street. But no food there, despite being part of the Olympic Culinary Tour, presumably for its beer collection. But they allow people to order food in from other establishments, so I guess it's OK.

But felt like seeing the town, walked to Water Street and met fellow Maniac Rob who lives nearby, at Public House for dinner.

Then walked back to the Pourhouse, where Dyno socialized with locals while I admired their unusual taps: 

The rest of the evening is a bit of a blur, but I do recall by an unbelievable twist of fate that Hot Tub Time Machine was on TV. Me thrashing, Ocean snoring, and Dyno peeing in the sink in his sleep? Good times, good times.

FERRY #2: PORT TOWNSEND TO KEYSTONE on the Kennewick

Next morning before Buttcrack we rode to a coffee house we had seen near the ferry terminal. With a name like “Better Living Through Coffee”, you can’t go wrong.

It was a bit chilly, and the road was closed due to a water main break. Quiche, individually brewed gigantic cups of coffee, and some homemade cookies for the road.

The ferry to Keystone (the Kennewick, which apparently means “winter paradise”, who knew?) was a bit larger and more modern than the ones we’re used to riding in Muk. A million dollar bike storage facility on the 2^nd floor?

After landing in Keystone, we knew the windy plains were awaiting us.

Is there an elephant on Whidbey? The only thing harder than the “invisible hills”, were the actual ones leading up to Freeland.

After a nice break, down a new road lined with a tunnel of trees.

And finally the last ferry!

FERRY #3: CLINTON TO MUKILTEO on the Cathlamet

Almost to the finish line.

I’m watching the seagulls while Dyno is already busy planning the 4 Ferries ride.

My legs are toast. I know the 500 ft. ferry hill awaits but so does the finish line. Too bad Lombardos (best crust ever) is closed for lunch, instead head to Ocean’s for the Seahawks game and Newcastles.

Blasted Skirtsteak’s NMN mix while dropping Dyno at home in Everett. We just beat the rain.

Taking votes the bike’s new name?

1.     Louis Winthorpe IV

2.     Raul

3.     Chef Dan

4.     Nanook